Salty Journal, surfing.

The search for waves

You wake up and check the forecast – 1-2 ft, 22 mph onshore and no swell WTF. You’re still convinced Magicseaweed is lying and not updated yet. You get ready, jump in the car and the journey begins.

home is where you park your van

At the same time, you know the tide is way too low but maybe there is a chance that karma god changed the sand banks for you, silly I know. At the first stop, you met your frustrated surf buddies, who are hanging out with their friends. Alrighty, at least you’re not alone anymore while your drinking your first sip of coffee and even better you get to know new people – new conversations – new friends who share the same passion.

Back in the car, you ask one of your partners in crime to turn on some good tunes, eeeeeppaa you really like the song you ‘ve never heard before – Shazam – Added to your playlist in Spotify.

You arrived at the next spot, knee high, messy and way too windy, fuck it. You take deep breaths of the fresh salted air and realize that this is the best spot option you can get, but wait – you need to wait for the tide coming in. Mother nature displays the dependency while you’re burning your skin at the beach – Humans try to change, interrupt and change the environment bloody bad, but welcome to the point where you’re completely helpless.

Arrifana, Portugal

48 minutes later – the sun is dazzling, you taste the saltwater and you’re laughing with your mates for no reason. No obvious reason. It’s the feeling of being in the water –  surrounded by something you love. After a refreshing surf with frustration, laughs and shit lots of wipeouts you feel free. You can see it in every single surfer’s eyes. What do I mean? Sparkling eyes, this satisfaction after a surf.
The zink is itchy and you feel your heavy arm carrying your board, but you’re back in the car. Whats next? You’re looking around and realize everyone is thinking the same – no words needed! We can interpret our devil smiles – how nice are wordless conversations by the way? Time for another surf.

All eyes on Lucia Roca – spanish happy face & surfer

Thanks to the last orange sun rays, the landscape looks like a set up from lord of the rings. You give yourself a little smile, realizing you made the right decisions. Decision? Where do you wanna live and how you’ll spend your precious time! One day you will look back and need the same little smile without any regrets!

Finally arrived –  but, yep, no waves? Time for a few scoops of ice cream. We love the gelato. While you’re freezing your tongue, your heart is melting. The taste of creamy gelato is like the feeling of a wave pushing you into the perfect ride. Good day hey – But what do I try to tell you?

It’ s all about the little things you realize after a day you were, for example, looking for waves.


I appreciate my friends, nature, my health and that I am able to live a life next to the ocean. Think about your day and what you actually have. Smile, appreciate it and say yes, yes to the past and to all the upcoming surfs and search for waves – Cause it’s more than just looking for a good swell!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *